Contortionists and Horses

Most cultures take pride in one thing or another about themselves. In Canada we have Hockey and Maple Syrup. Germany, well I know that beer springs to mind and some guy in Leiderhosen and a funny hat.

I had no idea what Mongolia was known for. Ghenggis Khan I suppose and the idea of fierce warriors who subjugated more people and land in 25yrs than the Roman Empire did in 400. Yup I read that in a book so it must be true. I also read that Mongolia was known for Cashmere, I can't say that knocked my socks off.

When we arrived in Mongolia we were exposed to what Mongolians are quite proud of and apparently world renowned for. Their throat singing and their contortionists. The throat singing is eerie, odd noises emanating from someone when his mouth isn't moving that much. Think of a human digereedoo. But everyone could appreciate the skill involved. Next on the agenda was contortionists. I've heard of individuals being afraid of clowns but I think I've created a whole new phobia category regarding watching contortionists. As soon as those little girls in their sequined skin tight jump suits walked out I got a queasy stomach. I recall seeing a contortionist when I was quite young. Almost a memory of a memory and I had talked myself into believing that the person I had watched oh-so-long-ago at some fair couldn't possibly have been such a pretzel. It obviously made a lasting impression on me.

But sure enough there were these young girls twisting themselves over backwards and smiling at us between their legs like some creepy spider. First off it just isn't natural and second off god knows what is happening to their poor organs being stretched like that. Of course it only got worse as eventually one girl was able to hold her entire body weight by her teeth and still look like some weird accident victim. I imagine these gals get plucked from their homes by the age of 5 and start learning the craft. In the time we were in Mongolia I think I saw 4 groups of contortionists perform and none of them looked older than 14. "Watching" is a loose term, most of the time my eyes were averted and I was waiting for it to be over. But the rest of the group seemed to like the shows. For the record Mongolia also has a culture rich in singing and dance and we were treated to some great performances.

Now this was in the city. Country nomads are far too practical to be twisting their body into odd configurations. Hell, they have yaks to milk and goats to herd. However it was in the country that I saw what Mongolians are also know for and perhaps take the most pride in. Their horses. The Mongolian saying is "A man without a horse is like a bird without wings" There are 10 horses for every man, woman and child in Mongolia. And in the northern part of Mongolia where we traveled we saw the horses. Herds and herds running along the Mongolian steppes, hanging out by the water holes, all being watched over by usually one herder on a horse. I didn't expect to see cowboys in Mongolia but there they were.

Horses and Mongolians go far back in recorded history. Ghenggis Khan was successful because his men could move swiftly and stealthily on horseback. He never had an infrantry, men on foot were useless to him. Since each man could carry everything he needed on his horse; food, weapons etc, there was never any need for supply trains. They were efficient and agile warriors and as history has recorded, almost unstoppable.

Today most Mongolians would know how to ride a horse, even the city dwellers. The guides and folks who looked after us on our trek all had horses and grew up with them. One of the main sports in the yearly Nadaam Festival is Horse Racing. The race is 42km over land and the competitors are boys some as young as 6 or 7.

If you've read my other blogs I mentioned that Mongolians also eat Horses. They are a practical people that's for sure. When the horse can no longer contribute, it's final give away is as food.

I didn't know what to expect before getting to Mongolia. Most of what I'd read was on the history, not of Mongolia today. From sequins to equine, Mongolia was a surprise.