Happy Tired

I went back and visited a friend on Sunday. Its not easy to make the trip since it requires some planning, partners and a good 4x4 with someone that can drive it. But some friends are worth the extra effort.

Turns out this friend is an Ice Climb called Hydrophobia. I have no idea of gender regarding Hydro but for the sake of argument I'll say "she" I first met Hydro in 2004. It was my first year ice climbing. My climbing partner Colin was routinely taking me on routes that were testing my abilities and giving me much valuable experience.

Hydrophobia was to be my first Gr5+ ice climb. Climbs are typically graded from Gr 2 to- Gr 6. Gr 2 ice, many climbers could comfortably solo (no ropes), Gr 3 most climbers would use ropes etc. Gr 4 begins to test the skills of the intermediate lead climber. Gr 5 climbs are in the realm of the very experienced ice climbers. Gr 5+ - Gr 6 start to be the playground for the expert climbers. When you think that rock climbing grades go from lets say 5.6 to 5.14's with permutations of a, b, c and d, it seems crazy that ice climbs would have such a minimal grading system. So suffice to say there are rather big jumps in complexity and skills needs from each grade of 2 to 3 to 4 etc.

As a second it is a different issue, we must learn how to navigate and climb steeper ice and deal with issues such a overhanging ice, different ice qualities and features. But still we always have the safety of the rope above us. However any second should be damn and I mean DAMN confident of their lead climber when climbing steeper ice. If your lead climber falls and gets injured it very fucking quickly becomes your problem.

However back to Hydrophobia. I went out 3yrs ago to climb Hydro with Colin and Jason Thompson. Colin had taken me on many adventures and I always felt that if he invited me along then he had enough confidence that I could do the climb - and so far I was successful.

Its a two hour walk to the climb and you enter into an amphitheater of rock where Hydro resides. Tall and beautiful, incredibly steep. Displayed in one large and intimidating visual as you walk through the boulder fields. I looked up, up, up and took in this display of nature. The epitome of what attracts me to ice climbing. The wonder of frozen water. I had been to churches and places of worship, now I had just walked into nature's Cathedral and I really did feel like kneeling down. That was partly because my knees went weak when I saw what I was going to be expected to climb. This was the first time that I felt I would not be up to the task, regardless of whether Colin and Jason had confidence in me.

I did complete the climb and it tested all of my abilities. I felt like I had been given such a rare privilege. Jason said he felt like a *true* ice climber now that he had led on Hydro.

Last year Colin and I returned to climb the Sorcerer and Hydro as a link-up. That time we approached Hydro from the top, rapped down her and proceeded to climb. My sense of wonder had been replaced with my determined mind-set to complete this objective. I was looking at her as a series of challenges, each pitch to be climbed with efficiency and resolve. It was dark by the time we completed the climb. I remember us grabbing a bite to eat as the waning light left us and we still had an additional 3hr walk out after being on the move for 19hrs.

This year Jason Thompson suggested we go back to Hydrophobia. So Colin, Jason and I brought 3 friends who had never climbed her. We walked in as we had done in 2004. The feeling again was of reverence. But this time my uncertainty and fear were replace with appreciation and humility.

What abundance life offered that I could climb something so beautiful not once, not twice but three times. I've been on many ice climbs but the energy around this climb continues to stand out for me. Now I approached her as an experienced climber. I wasn't scared, I knew I would enjoy every pitch. She was the first climb to truly test me so I come back to redefine my skills and abilities, a quintessential measure.

I decided that the next time I come for a visit I will have to lead. At the end of the climb, as if reading my thoughts Colin says "well you only have to come back one more time" I smiled at him because his second comment didn't have to be spoken... "you will have to lead"

Many non-climbers find it convenient to label climbers as adrenaline junkies and I've been lumped into that box as well sometimes. How do you tell someone who assumes you are out for gratuitous thrills, that in fact you pilgrimage to a holy place. That you pray and feel nature's divine grace in the ice, in the wind, in the spindrift that rains down, and in the friends who share this experience with you.

Every time I have visited Hydrophobia she has had different character and offered me new challenges. I look forward to visit number 4.

Weekend Fun

My gal-pal and climbing partner Michele made the jaunt up from California to swing the sticks at least once this year. Michele has been dealing with some health issues and ultimately surgery so it's sidelined her usual trips up north but never her enthusiasm.

We made our way up to the Bear Spirit Crag. I was concerned about the hour long approach and it was taxing for Michele whose been spending her time recovering, not working on her uphill endurance while carrying a 30lb pack on her back. So the approach was tiring for her.

I led up the ice, this was the hardest pitch I've done leading with my leashless Nomics (now named Betty and Veronica). The ice looked untouched so I was swinging and kicking for every placement. I realized after the fact that I was also wearing my mono-points which did add to a bit of mental insecurity. However I took my time and was happy with the lead. There are different camps as to the wisdom of leading leashless or not. My feeling (so far) is that I'm happy to lead leashless on single pitch ice, where dropping a tool has far less consequence. On the multi-pitch I think I'll stick to Thelma and Louise and the leashes. Which If I think of Brad Pitt AND leashes AND ropes well its makes everything abit more interesting...muhahahahaha.... but I digress...

Michele re-acquainted herself with ice and was very disappointed that she had to swing and kick also since she was following my line. She got stronger on every lap as her muscles remembered what climbing ice was all about.

The next day we took a lazy day and Sunday I threw Michele on my climbing wall in the garage. Brian came over and we had fun setting up some new routes. That's the bonus with having a climbing guide partner who's an expert at climbing gym route-setting. Perfect! Brian put up some challenging routes that will keep me busy for quite awhile. I deliberately set up a down climbing route that should make my taller friends crunch up into interesting contortions to complete it in the cave section.

I also committed to a big objective this summer. One of those "Oh gosh what have I done?" scenarios. A "worthy" objective as I like to call it that will force me to step up my training to have maximum cardio and endurance. And yes as superstitions dictate I won't be mentioning the objective. I'm climbing with 3 other guys so I'll respect that they probably don't want me blabbing about it (too much)

I'll be creating a training schedule which will combine weights, cardio, running, and of course climbing. I'm excited about pushing my abilities and seeing what I'm capable of. No rest for the wicked..... :-)