Last climbing of the Rock Season
Road Trip! Road Trip! Colin and I headed out on the Thanksgiving Weekend in search of some warmer weather to climb. We found ourselves enjoying a gorgeous day in Revelstoke. As we headed into BC we entered Colin's old stomping grounds. There was a crag in Revelstoke that he hadn't climbed before called Waterworld and some climbs he had been told about that weren't in the guide book so that was our first stop.
Day 1 We had to rap down these cliffs to the base of the lake. Lucky for us there was this nifty wooden platform to stand on. The water looked deep and cold. Some would say this is a rather committing climb since once you rap down there is no way out but UP. The climbing was in the 10b, c or d range, Colin was enigmatic about which grade it was. We were sport climbing so my comfort level rises as I know I'm not going to watch him precariously balanced as he selects his gear and starts to place it. Don't get me wrong, the climbing was sustained and I found it very difficult, can you say "French Free"? translation: shamelessly pulling on draws to get you up the climb if need be. I'm not that proud if its too hard I'll pull on gear. 2 times I had to navigate scary traverses which is as close as a second climber will get to leading, which means I face the same consequence of falling as the lead had while they were traversing. Which when it gets to the 10+ climbs I can't say I'm that happy about about.
The day was so warm, we were only in our T-shirts. The difference in early fall though, once the sun started to set it got chilly very quickly. Once our climbing was done we were back in the car heading to Penticton. One thing about Colin, he believes in getting in as much climbing in as humanly possible. I have to say I am more about "quality" over "quantity" I have no issue ending early if I've had a good day and a great glass of wine and a good dinner are calling my name. Is this foreshadowing? Why yes it is....
We roll into Pentiction around midnight and were lucky that the campground gates were still open. We found an open spot and quickly set up the tent. When travelling with the big-guy you get used to the fact that you'll be doing many things in the dark, waking up, setting up tents, taking down tents, rappelling, climbing, you name it.
The next day after I insist on breakfast and I have to admit we were leisurely in the morning, we headed out to the climbing mecca Skaha, where I had never been before. I've usually been met with incredulous looks from other climbers..."you've never been to Skaha?" So at least now I can say HELL YA I have.
Skaha is a series of Crags, many crags actually. Colin had climbed there often and he was on the hunt to tick off some of the climbs he was researching and quietly making a list of over breakfast. So breakfast was us eating, I'm reading the paper, Colin is making is little weeny lists... I mean doing his careful research. One thing about Colin as a roadtrip partner, he doesn't demand much conversation from you and I don't really mind that. We talk when we have something to say and stay in comfortable silence the rest of the time.
Day 2 At the Crag the climbing begins, one 10b or c or d after the other. Colin would climb, come down I would grunt, groan, stretch, jump, cling, do whatever to get up the climb. I would come down, Colin would climb, no break to speak of, just climb. On climb number 7 with the sun setting the coolness setting in and I was watching the other climbers leaving I thought, "surely Colin is done" In the dusk he says "we have time for another climbe" I lose my composure, I yell, "Colin look around you... everyone is LEAVING!!!" he found this oddly amusing but still he walked over to the last climb we could do. I have always been aware that Colin is in a different league than I am, in ability and desire. I find myself having to gauge my strength and what I will have to climb with the next day and the next. Also I am satisfied much quicker 4 or 5 hard pitches and I'm patting myself on the shoulder for a job well done.
Day 3 We are back at the Crag. I am tired a cold has firmly set in and my joie de vivre for climbing anything is waning. I am wondering how I am going to climb on Day 4 so am deciding how much I will climb today. I'm happy to be a belay slave for Colin but I was fairly clear I didn't want to do more 2 pitch combos as I wanted the option to stop climbing when I was tired. I think I climbed 4 climbs and ironically rather than feeling even sorer I found that I was climbing better. I was thinking about my footwork more and being more deliberate so I could save my strength for the power moves. But my head wasn't really into it and I kept thinking about having to climb the next day as well. I belayed Colin for the last 2 pitches, I just didn't have the interest to try and climb those 10d's.
Later that evening my cold had me feeling even worse, I mentioned to Colin that I wasn't sure about climbing the next day, best to prepare him the night before I figured. The next day when I woke up I knew I wasn't up for climbing back at Revelstoke as had been the plan. When I told Colin he shrugged his shoulders, I think he got enough climbing in for the 3 days that missing the 4th day wouldn't kill him. We opted to stop at some wineries on the way out of town.
I did get convinced to do some bouldering in this small area, apparently it had these great Granite boulders. We played around more than bouldered honestly but I have to admit it was fun.
Finally we were on our way back home. After spending 4 days together, Colin and I had mostly run out of things to say to each other. The last 4 hours were spent mostly in silence listening to music which seemed to work for both of us. We even managed to find music on my ipod that worked for our disparate tastes in music.
That's the thing about road trips, one has to learn how to cooperate with your partners, enjoy the climbing and hopefully enjoy each other's company at the same time. A few "moments" aside I think we did pretty good. :-)
Day 1 We had to rap down these cliffs to the base of the lake. Lucky for us there was this nifty wooden platform to stand on. The water looked deep and cold. Some would say this is a rather committing climb since once you rap down there is no way out but UP. The climbing was in the 10b, c or d range, Colin was enigmatic about which grade it was. We were sport climbing so my comfort level rises as I know I'm not going to watch him precariously balanced as he selects his gear and starts to place it. Don't get me wrong, the climbing was sustained and I found it very difficult, can you say "French Free"? translation: shamelessly pulling on draws to get you up the climb if need be. I'm not that proud if its too hard I'll pull on gear. 2 times I had to navigate scary traverses which is as close as a second climber will get to leading, which means I face the same consequence of falling as the lead had while they were traversing. Which when it gets to the 10+ climbs I can't say I'm that happy about about.
The day was so warm, we were only in our T-shirts. The difference in early fall though, once the sun started to set it got chilly very quickly. Once our climbing was done we were back in the car heading to Penticton. One thing about Colin, he believes in getting in as much climbing in as humanly possible. I have to say I am more about "quality" over "quantity" I have no issue ending early if I've had a good day and a great glass of wine and a good dinner are calling my name. Is this foreshadowing? Why yes it is....
We roll into Pentiction around midnight and were lucky that the campground gates were still open. We found an open spot and quickly set up the tent. When travelling with the big-guy you get used to the fact that you'll be doing many things in the dark, waking up, setting up tents, taking down tents, rappelling, climbing, you name it.
The next day after I insist on breakfast and I have to admit we were leisurely in the morning, we headed out to the climbing mecca Skaha, where I had never been before. I've usually been met with incredulous looks from other climbers..."you've never been to Skaha?" So at least now I can say HELL YA I have.
Skaha is a series of Crags, many crags actually. Colin had climbed there often and he was on the hunt to tick off some of the climbs he was researching and quietly making a list of over breakfast. So breakfast was us eating, I'm reading the paper, Colin is making is little weeny lists... I mean doing his careful research. One thing about Colin as a roadtrip partner, he doesn't demand much conversation from you and I don't really mind that. We talk when we have something to say and stay in comfortable silence the rest of the time.
Day 2 At the Crag the climbing begins, one 10b or c or d after the other. Colin would climb, come down I would grunt, groan, stretch, jump, cling, do whatever to get up the climb. I would come down, Colin would climb, no break to speak of, just climb. On climb number 7 with the sun setting the coolness setting in and I was watching the other climbers leaving I thought, "surely Colin is done" In the dusk he says "we have time for another climbe" I lose my composure, I yell, "Colin look around you... everyone is LEAVING!!!" he found this oddly amusing but still he walked over to the last climb we could do. I have always been aware that Colin is in a different league than I am, in ability and desire. I find myself having to gauge my strength and what I will have to climb with the next day and the next. Also I am satisfied much quicker 4 or 5 hard pitches and I'm patting myself on the shoulder for a job well done.
Day 3 We are back at the Crag. I am tired a cold has firmly set in and my joie de vivre for climbing anything is waning. I am wondering how I am going to climb on Day 4 so am deciding how much I will climb today. I'm happy to be a belay slave for Colin but I was fairly clear I didn't want to do more 2 pitch combos as I wanted the option to stop climbing when I was tired. I think I climbed 4 climbs and ironically rather than feeling even sorer I found that I was climbing better. I was thinking about my footwork more and being more deliberate so I could save my strength for the power moves. But my head wasn't really into it and I kept thinking about having to climb the next day as well. I belayed Colin for the last 2 pitches, I just didn't have the interest to try and climb those 10d's.
Later that evening my cold had me feeling even worse, I mentioned to Colin that I wasn't sure about climbing the next day, best to prepare him the night before I figured. The next day when I woke up I knew I wasn't up for climbing back at Revelstoke as had been the plan. When I told Colin he shrugged his shoulders, I think he got enough climbing in for the 3 days that missing the 4th day wouldn't kill him. We opted to stop at some wineries on the way out of town.
I did get convinced to do some bouldering in this small area, apparently it had these great Granite boulders. We played around more than bouldered honestly but I have to admit it was fun.
Finally we were on our way back home. After spending 4 days together, Colin and I had mostly run out of things to say to each other. The last 4 hours were spent mostly in silence listening to music which seemed to work for both of us. We even managed to find music on my ipod that worked for our disparate tastes in music.
That's the thing about road trips, one has to learn how to cooperate with your partners, enjoy the climbing and hopefully enjoy each other's company at the same time. A few "moments" aside I think we did pretty good. :-)
posted by Lise B at Sunday, October 21, 2007
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